Why Pattern Grading Can Make Or Break Your Boardroom Style
THE INSIDE STORY
A Well-Fitting Workwear Pant - How Hard Can It Be?
We’ve all been there: you’ve discovered the perfect-looking work-wear pant – they’re
smart, they’re tailored, and they fit the model like a glove. Then you try your size and suddenly your dream pants are missing the mark, which is in fact quite often and quite literally the case.
While fashion brands often claim to work hard on perfecting the fit of their garments, the common practice of fashion houses to focus on a size 8 model as the base for design and fit, can actually limit the success of their fit process as their pattern markers move up the size scale.
Pants in particular, present design teams with multiple challenges. For example, as well as the standard waist and hip measurements to consider, there is also crotch measurements and the various width measurements at the different parts of the legs.
Also, different bodies present their curves in different ways, so that even across a standard size 12, there will be women with more shapely hips while others will have a straighter hip-to-waist ratio and others still, will have stronger thighs, and so the possibilities and proportions continue.
Sizing Up the Challenge
In response to these challenges, the L&F design team has stepped away from the ‘norm’ to achieve a better result for our customers. From the outset, we start a level up with the base blocks for all our garment styles set at a size 10. Fittings are done on a size 12 body and, because we understand that there can be different proportions within each size, we allow a 4cm variation within our size brackets.
Once content with the fit at a size 12 level, then the process of scaling up the pattern across the size range, known as pattern grading, begins.
One of the benefits of L&F’s Australia-based in-house design and production team, is their ability to adapt to suit the different requirements of varying garment styles.
“We aim to grow our garments in proportion rather than blankly following a standard rule, and our smaller production runs allow us to be more flexible in adjusting the scale of garments particularly at the upper end of the range,” says L&F Creative Director, Fleur Richardson. “Specifically in terms of pants, we assume a blending approach to maximise the success through the different sizes.”
“In terms of pants, we assume a blending approach to maximise the [fit] success through the different sizes” - Fleur Richardson, Creative Director
Contoured Control
Fabrication too, plays a big part in the fit of a pant. Take L&F’s best-selling Troy Pant, as an example - the four-way stretch of the Luxe Tech Stretch fabric works amazingly well at adapting to fit the various body shapes within any particular size.
Front-of-mind for the L&F design team once the balance between waist and hip measurements has been achieved, is the fit through the seat. Looking again at the Troy Pant, tailored seams through the back work with the stretch fabric to contour to the body, balancing a comfort fit through the seat while delivering a sleek silhouette. To the front, a flat, zip closure increases control.
Pants That Flatter -The Full Profile
While rising to the challenge of fitting the many variations of the female form in all their glories, the final look must also compliment the full profile of the wearer. So while the Troy Pant tailors to the hips, it features flared-cut legs to create balance through the entire silhouette. The cropped length too, serves to keep the look contemporary.
Powering up your workwear look therefore, doesn’t just start with making the purchase. Understanding and knowledge are key to facilitating the process. Achieving confidence in your style begins with feeling certain about a garment and its benefits. As with everything in life, knowledge is power so with this article in hand, shop with intention and clarity, and know that the perfect fit is indeed within your reach.
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